looking for any help set wise. like scale numbers, staggger, tire size, how much air presure, tire brand, best shocks, iv heard 620 to 650 final gear if thats right? anything you can tell me! thanks in advance
call me at 352-302-2015. I have questions before I an help. Most others will have questions too.
What kind of car? engine details? transmission ratios, weight of car without any weights? Have you scaled it and how did that come out? Stagger front and rear with what you have or will have? What are the tire measurements? Are you preparing the car now? or just in the build stage?
you can not run stagger at ocala
I had already read all the rules for V-8 Thunder Stock Division
They are almost the same rules I ran under about 20 years ago and won all those races.
WHEELS AND TIRES
1.Maximum 8" wheels.
2.Minimum 7/16" studs with 1" lug nuts on all four wheels.
3.Tires must be DOT radial 70 series. All tires must be same size except right front.
4.Tires must not exceed 2" from fender wells, except right front.
5.No recaps. All wheels same size except right front, off-set stock 3-4 inches.
6.Right front wheel only-- Will run either 8" Hoosier with 8" rim or 10" wheel with Hoosier RC4 tire (Sportsman tire).
How can you not run stagger? I honestly found NOTHING in the rules about stagger + or -. They want you to run a Hoosier tire on the right front and the rest are 70 series. You would hunt for a long time to find three tires exactly the same around as the hosier. I would start a new car and try to get 2" in front and 2.5" in the rear.
That hoosier will be between 81 and 86 inches around at 25-30 pounds. MEASURE it FIRST"! You get 2 - 70 series tires that are slightly smaller in circumference. And one about the same size around. When you air the up, it will work to give stagger. Put the largest 70 on the rr. With street tires, try to get the softest compound you can find. Tire store guys know which ones.
We ran a loaded sway bar like they allow, but you may not need.
You probably need about a 600 final ratio, maybe as high as 620. It depends on the engine a bit.
We had to weigh 2700 without driver - you have to weigh 3100 with driver and We had to run 60 series street tires.
They are allowing you to change springs and shocks.
I found a 6 cyl chevelle spring for the RR aand a BIG Buick spring for the LR and use racing springs on front about 550 RF and 450 LF. That will give you a conventional setup.
Shocks: RF Good and stiff, same with LR, RR softer like a light weight car, LF - who cares
All of this is close and may need to be changed a little. It is hard to tell someone what to do without being there and seeing what it does and what they have. Of course, mine are all just suggestions from winning cars, but it does not mean it is right for you and your car.
If you want to run the newest setups, then the springs and shocks will be a great bit different. Ask us?
Hope it helps.
i really thank you alot. where are you located
I am in Port Richey and am a setup person on the 97 super late model that runs at Citrus. I am told it is much like Ocala.
I have built and raced many cars in many divisions and wrote a software program( www.racerssetup.com) to help people with their math, problems and general help. I also won over 200 short track races as a driver.
I gave you a kinda broad idea of where I would start if I had a metric GM car. Those cars have a flaw in that if lowered, they bottom out. Be careful.
The older M/C (73-77) had the best way to go although the wb was longer. Loved the 68-72 GM cars, but you can’t find them. Older Camaros had rear leaf springs(not my favorite), but they won a lot of races. 101" wb gives a lot of choices for you.
The rule right there that says all tires must be the same size except the right front is talking about the diameter. For example all the tires must be 235’s or all 255’s, you will not see 2.5" of stagger with the same size tires even if you cut the lr all the way down it will not get that small.
went they asphalt ocala that setup may work??? but for now you can’t run stagger in the rear. the tech man looks every race and i know because we are winning and he is very good at teching his name is travis and you can call him and ask him all your questions.
The reason you want to get that rf first( and get a BIG one) is so you can measure it at 30 pounds and make sure the other tires you get are smaller or one same and 2 smaller.
Tires are not made the same
you just measure the tires at 30 pounds and if you measure 5, you will have 5 different sizes. Change a brand and it multiplies. I have found up to 4" in two tires(235*15) in the same brand, but only once. Change a brand, if you can and it can get better. Remember let the air out of left side down to about 12-20 cold. Keep right side at 27-30 cold. That is not even set in granite. Be safe an drive a little slow a couple laps if you go below 15 on a left tire.
If it is loose, add more to lr. if tight, let some out of lr. Make sense?
They are probably right about all same size tires on the (label). If you do it right, the tech man will know it and say nothing or maybe he will wink. If you do it wrong, what is the worst? He will pull your position and tell you to change it.
I have been up against some of the best techs anywhere and always learned to join them, not fight them. Try them a little, not fight them.
**You notice I am not posting anything to cheat or outrageous on here. A beginner has a hard enough time learning even with help, but if he can hold that car it is safer for all of us.
ever heard of 65 lbs and lay in sun for a week. in race the hotter tire gets the more it will grow car comes in middle of race. not gray area.
Yes, and you are right with 60-70 lbs air for a week. we typically have a 25 pounds in a rr at start(slicks on asphalt). We have already grown the tire with air pressure so we know how much it will go in size and we have let air out so we know how we can adjust.
Done for every tire on the car. The smaller inside tires we try to keep below 20 and let em set at about 15. They do grow a bit even at 15. Amazing.